A rope is the most important element on a climb and is your only link to life, when you are suspended on a wall. This article explains how to look after your rope and how to keep it in the best condition possible for maximum safety. We would like to thank Korda’s for the information provided and the revision of data by their technical department.
Most queries received from our customers are about ropes. Their importance to our safety is clear but the amount of technical information you need to consider when choosing a rope can be overwhelming. We have already written an article on this and we invite you to read it. We should also add that even the most durable ropes require specific care and maintenaince.
The norms for both dynamic and semi-static ropes do not mention that they should be made of a specific material, but climbing, caving and canyoning ropes are usually made of polyamide. However, they can also be made of polyester, polypropylene, ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (Dyneema) or aramid (Kevlar) for floatable ropes, dogbones, slings or harnesses.
It is not easy to categorise the durability of a rope with a number, since it varies according to features such as the age of the rope, the thickness of the sheath and how it has been used and stored. Research on this issue concludes that an unused rope, stored in optimum conditions, scarcely loses its properties over time, although information provided by different brands can vary. We can conclude that the life expectancy of a rope is 15 years from the date of manufacture or 10 years from the date of its first use. However, the durability of a rope that has suffered intense use will decrease drastically and may need to be retired after just a few months if used daily, or even after the first minute if it has suffered severe damage.
Both during use and storage of a rope, it is important to ensure it is not in contact with sharp edges or dangerous substances. It is also important to store it away from sunlight and heat sources, in a cool dry environment. Durability will be increased by using a Ground cloth or brushes and soaps to keep a rope clean. To prevent wear on one end, swap the end on each climb and avoid constant use for top roping or use a rope protector to prevent deterioration from abrasion on rappels or sharp edges. Above all, it is essential to be particularly careful during the first few uses.
The fibres of a brand new rope that has not been put under tension are more relaxed, which can lead to visible damage (e.g. a rope hernia) if it is used over sharp edges or suffers abrasion and it can also lead to twisting. After several uses and over time, the rope becomes tensed and is less prone to this kind of damage. It is recommended that you pay special attention to your rope during the first four or five uses.
This happens because of the way they are manufactured. When a rope leaves the factory, it has a neutral structure. The descender, belay device or friction caused when setting up a belay point or rappel can lead the this neutral structure becoming modified. For this reason, it is convenient to unwrap the rope carefully stretch the rope well during the first few uses and avoid strong, continued friction caused by top roping or by using a dynamic knot with a belay device or descender.
Some brands use a colour code to show the date of manufacture on their dynamic ropes, but it is not obligatory and not all brands use this method. This method consists of a coloured thread that runs through the core of the rope, which indicates the year of manufacture and this code is repeated every 10 years. Semi-static ropes have to comply with a norm stating that an interior tape with the printed date of manufacture must run through the core.
A rope should be checked from one end to the other, visually and by touch for cuts, abrasion, wear and sheath slippage. We should get into the habit of doing this each time we coil or uncoil the rope.
Cuts, burns or abrasion are clear indicators, but there are also less obvious reasons which can put your safety at risk. If you see a white powder when you scratch the rope sheath with your nail or if you see any bulges or hernias in the rope, this will mean it needs to be retired. Any contact with harmful substances will also invalidate the rope for climbing.
Yes, if the rest of the rope has not exceeded its life expectancy and has been carefully inspected for any other possible damage it can still be used with caution, bearing in mind the now reduced length. As the ends of a rope receive most impact from falls and use of knots, it is common practice to cut them off, when damaged, and continue to use the rest.
The quickest, cleanest and safest option is to use a rope cutter. If you do not have one, wrap the end with tape before cutting and then use a lighter to melt the polyamide sheath and core to prevent fraying.
The problem of sheath slippage does is not as common as some years ago, thanks to newer construction methods that bond the sheath and core together. However, more economical or older ropes may not be made with this technique, in which case, you would need to cut off the excess sheath with a rope cutter or lighter and melt the polyamide of the sheath and core.
It is statistically improbable that you are able to punture a rope with a crampon point or ice-axe. If, however you’ve had the bad luck to achieve this, it is highly unlikely it will have cut a large enough number of fibres to require the retirement of the rope.
In general, you should discard any rope or textile safety item that has been in contact with acid. Commonly used substances such as bleach or sulphuric acid (more common than you think, as it is released from car batteries and traces may lie in the parking lot of the climbing area) will destroy the strength of the rope. The following list will help clarify which substances can affect the strength and durability of a rope:
The classic way of marking the halfway point on your rope with tape or duct tape are quick and inexpensive, but unfortunately it is not always efficient as the mark can disappear or shift when the duct-taped section passes through the descender or belay device, with the consequent safety problem that this entails. We recommend using a special marker for polyamide as, unlike other markers, it does not contain substances that weaken polyamide
.
Ropes can and should be washed. If they are not too dirty, dust and dirt accumulation can be addressed by brushing. The accumulation of dirt on the out and inside of the rope can cause the fibres to break, affecting its resistance, so a periodic clean will improve performance and increase longevity. The quickest way to clean is by hand washing the rope in a bathtub or basin. As a basic recommendation avoid water temperatures over 30ºC, never use salt water, use neutral soap and avoid direct sunlight and heat sources while drying.
Yes, by following the recommendations above and never use the spinning cycle. It is also important to rinse out any bleach that may have been used previously in the washing machine.
It is possible and, in fact, it is advisable to use softener in case the rope has increased in stiffness. It is important that, like the detergent, the softener has a neutral Ph.
No, it is not recommended. Heat sources should be avoided at all costs.
As we said before, it is very important to avoid direct sunlight and heat sources. It is better not to rush rope drying. For best results, fold it like a chain and hang it in the shade in a ventilated area.
No, it does not affect the durability if there are no associated problems such as strong snags or cuts, which can be caused by branches or sharp rock edges during the approach or return. However, certain folding methods can be useful depending on the situation: folding it across your shoulder or on the backpack are very practical when doing activity or for the approach and return. Take care when unfolding the rope not to curl it excessively or produce loops that won’t pass through the belay device or descender.
Rope bags help keep a rope active for longer. In addition to the logical convenience for transportation, packing and finding the rope quickly, rope bags prevent dust and mineral particles from getting into the rope, which in turn, prevent damage to the rope fibres. The accumulation of dust and dirt in the sheath also aggravates the wear of belay devices, descenders, carabiners, express sets and belay and rappel installations.
Most Recent Articles
Leave a comment
Be the first to comment on this article.