How to choose your new 2017 Ice Axe

Here we will help you make the best choice, because psychologically, to make the right choice with your ice axe is as important as to make a right choice with your boots: the ice axe is for the good times and the hard times. You may even think that your life depends on your axe, or maybe that it has already saved you.

Also, an ice axe lasts for many years (even a lifetime); therefore, it is important to have in hand a tool that we like and trust, instead of regretting not spending a little more money.

However, one ice axe is not like any other. Soon you will have several different ones, for different activities. Usually we do not recommend having several tools of the same type, but rather different models that complement each other.

PARTS OF AN ICE AXE
First we must describe the elements we find on an ice axe, whose assembly and shape will determine the type and appropriate use.

Head (modular or fixed):

• Pick (Positive, neutral or negative)
• Blade (toothed, bevelled, types B or T)
• Cross
• Adze (normal or inverted)
• Hammer

• Tube
• Leash (classic, sliding or technical)
• Grip (tube, rubber, ergonomic)
• Support (first, second, adjustable, trigger)

USE OF THE ICE AXE

POSITION OF GRIP, ACCORDING TO USE

• WALKING STICK POSITION FOR < 45º SLOPES
• LOW DAGGER POSITION FOR 45º – 60º SLOPES
• MID DAGGER POSITION FOR 60º – 70º SLOPES
• ICE AXE -TRACTION > 70º

• STAKE. As a self anchor on snow and rock or emergency snow anchor or as a boot belay.
• HORIZONTAL. As an anchor or snow belay point
• SELF-ARREST
• HAMMER. For placing pitons, testing the rock or cleaning ice and debris
• ADZE. For carving ice bollards, cleaning fissures or ledges or carving steps

• 1. CLASSIC
  
  
  • 1.1 Mountaineering
  • 1.2 Skiing
  • 1.3 Climbing



• 2. TECHNICAL
  
  
  • 2.1 Technical climbing
    
    • 2.1.1 With leash
    • 2.1.2 With adjustable hand rest
  • 2.2 Climbing
    
    • 2.1.3 + 2.2.1 With fixed hand rest
    • 2.2.2 Ergonomic

SAFETY STANDARDS
All ice-axes are certified with a safety standard. This helps the consumer have a better knowledge of the product, although it can sometimes be slightly confusing, for example, when you find you have to choose between a type T and B ice axe. So let's take a closer look at this now:

T (Technical) or B (Basic)
This classification can be deceiving since it is not related to the use, but to the resistance of the ice-axe. It is governed by the standard EN-13089 and UIAA-152, which indicates the resistance in Kn and the exact laboratory tests to be passed, by both the shaft and the blades.

• Type 1 (Basic): Basic or walking ice axe: resistance requirements are lower.
• Type 2 (Technical): Technical ice axe, suitable for all uses, greater resistance is required in all tests (traction on the shaft, resistance of the shaft, bending of the blade).

Lately however, manufacturers have begun to use T-Type picks on ice and mixed climbing ice axes.

Checking the safety standards is is certainly an important factor to bear in mind when choosing your ice axe.

CLASSIC ICE AXES

1.1 Classic mountaineering ice axes

In this group we include tools for hiking, crossing glaciers or climbing easy mountains on normal ascent routes.

In this discipline, 90% of the time the ice axe will be used in the walking stick position. It will occasionally be used in the low dagger position; and very rarely, or never be used in the mid dagger or traction position. The only emergency use you should be prepared for is to use the ice axe for self-arrest.

The walking stick position means you will grip the ice axe at the head, so it is important that this is comfortable in your hand.

Its pick may be "negative" or neutral, usually without a sharp edge or tapered at 90°. The negative pick facilitates self-arrest manoeuvres, but results in a diminished ice penetration.
The toothing often disappears near the cross to improve its grip.
If we have to use an adze, a big one is better.
A classic ice axe for hiking has a straight or slightly curved shaft.
It must be long enough to more or less reach the ankle when grasping it from the cross, without bending over. The longer it is, the more comfortable and practical it will be to use on mild or moderate slopes (it is not made for steep slopes). However it is more cumbersome to transport and it will probably get caught on many branches as it sticks out from the backpack.
As they are designed for a less aggressive use, they are constructed prioritizing lightness over robustness.

This type of ice axe has a "leash", with a small sling attached to a ring (leash stop) that runs along the upper half of the shaft. This leash is very comfortable to use, although its resistance to use for self-safety is quite limited as they are made of plastic.

1.2 Classic ice axe for ski touring

For ski touring, having an ice axe is as basic as using a helmet.
We are not talking about climbing with skis, when skiing is just a means of approximation to go climbing with our ergonomic ice axe, but rather when go skiing we are able to resolve difficult or dangerous situations if they arise.

The ski ice axe should be equally lightweight, small and sturdy. The reason for needing lightness is obvious. The small size prevents it from cropping out from the backpack while we ski, and to avoid becoming a dangerous item as we roll when falling.

And despite being as light as possible, it must withstand any use. Usually, it is only used when the slope is vertical, as a stake, or hoe, in dagger or traction position. We might use it little but very intensely.

1.3 Classic ice axe for climbing

If the ski ice axe must be designed to withstand any kind of use, imagine how a mountaineering ice axe should be designed.

As the ice axe must be strong, a T type axe must be used. A mountaineering ice axe is designed for more aggressive use, on steeper terrain, with hard ice and rocks; and it must be versatile to be used in many ways: as an anchor, carving ice mushrooms or whatever it required.
Construction using blades and crosses made from sheet metal (as in mountaineering) are not used here; these ice axes are forged in a single piece that is securely attached to the shaft. The same happens with the spikes.

The pick will be neutral or positive, sharpened at 90º or higher.

Full or partially rubber grips are often used with a bend in the shaft. This curve is functional as it separates our hand from the surface of hard snow when using it in a dagger position. This is very useful on long and cold steep slopes.

It may have a leash, but it will not be sliding and will be for self-arrest and traction.

BARRABES CLASSIC 2017 ICE AXE

GRIVEL

Who says a classic ice axe cannot be technical? Let's see what Grivel offers:

The G Zero is the cheapest of its line. For less than 70 Euro you can have a Grivel ice axe of less than half a kilo, with leash and the best grip on the cross of the market: a great walking stick ice axe.

However, a user will talk about technical mountaineering when using two ice axes.

In this segment, at the functional level, we can identify three types of ice axe: with a leash, and with an adjustable or fixed hand rest.

They usually exist in several sizes (although not mandatory) and some can mount classical and inverted blade.

2.1.1 With leash at the wrist

This type of ice axe is still popular when you have to drive the grip regularly and it is not necessary to release the tool a lot, for example, snow areas in which we don’t need to use too much rope.

2.1.2 Adjustable hand rest

The adjustable hand rest will give you more freedom of movement. The mobility of the support allows, by lifting it, to drive the grip correctly and move comfortably with the axe in dagger position. Lowering it, we can go on traction axe without wrist leash (in these cases, a harness leash is usually very good, single or double). It is a system with additional benefits; and of course, those in this category also serve as a starting point to have your own “minimum equipment."

2.1.3 y 2.2.1. Fixed hand rest: ice axe for technical mountaineering and climbing

This was the climbing ice axe until the ergonomic grip became popular, which until then were used only in competitions or technical climbing. But far from extinct, thanks to its versatility, it lasts till today.

This type of tool allows you to climb difficult areas, you can still stick the grip in the snow, despite the hand rest, being the best option where you also have to climb snow, or make exposed flanks.

It is curious that you can still find for sale some model with wrist leash, totally in disuse. Climbing without a wrist leash is much more fluid, natural and relaxed, despite appearances. In order not to lose the tools or to improvise any possible hanging or self-belay, we only have to get used to wearing a harness leash (the famous "elastic", like the X-Gyro or Spinner Leash).

In the blade which is always reversed, we find a sharp positive pick, with the very important first tooth, very flat and long for ice, either pronounced or concave for mixed; fine and sharp teeth later, before wider teeth. Near the cross, the teeth become small and sharp despite the detriment that this entails to grab the cross (they devour the gloves), since they are of great help to hook on to big objects.

The upper and lower bevelling is a must, because when climbing vertically, good penetration is as important as a good recovery of the tool.

The sharpening and the toothing are very important as they determine that the head must be modular: blades for ice are different from the mix ones, thicker, with less acute sharpening and a different first tooth. Fixed blade climbing axes also belong to this description.

In recent times and with only a few exceptions, grips are well curved, something very practical to hook cauliflowers, holes, logs and columns (together with the teeth). To adapt to this curve, the blades no longer emerge at an angle from the cross as before, which was used along with the curved grip to achieve a perpendicular impact on the surface for a greater penetration.

The handle has a rubber grip for a better hold, always with a support for the hand and another one on top to move the hand as well as to use it on more flat terrain. Some models display a trigger for the index finger. Although it may seem of little use, you immediately become interested in the trigger, as you can aim better with it.

Finally, spikes that can be clipped have reappeared, as they had disappeared in recent times as the rest had been mounted on them.

2.2.2 Ergonomic

Here we present the modern ergonomic climbing ice axes, where driving the grip in the snow is sacrificed for a better grip in search of our limits.

For the blades, everything in the previous section still applies, although on the cross, the back element, shovel or hammer, often disappears. There are more "sporty" models without this option, or with it, for a multi-purpose use.

The equally curved grip is always manufactured with a second rubberised position (this type of ice axe is usually covered with "grip") and the most striking element is the grip, with or without spike, adjustable in size or angle, with a trigger.

In short, what is achieved with these grips is a more effective punch when we are fully stretched (we are talking about serious difficult climbing) and better top release. We will see different elements and benefits when talking about each model in detail.

BARRABES TECHNICAL 2017 ICE AXE

GRIVEL

The Light Machine:For couloirs, goulottes and technical mountaineering "North Face" type Grivel offers us this model with the best advantages in its category, thanks to its modular cross and the aggressive Ice or Mix blades. It has the Easy Slider harness leash to use the hand rest in traction mode, or to nail the grip in the snow without hindrance, keeping the anchorage of the leash in place without changing the clip.

If you want it even lighter for the same type of climbing, the Jorasses 2.0 offers the latest fixed inverted blade of the market for an ultra-light and super technical tool, plus the Easy Slider as standard.

The North Machine Carbon: This is the most spectacular and popular tool in the market, with a carbon grip (aluminium coated with carbon-composite, more specifically) and the Machine cross to mount the Ice or Mix blades (with hammer or blade); it is ultra-light and ultra-precise.